Let’s go to West Bengal today, to Darjeeling and Rimbick in northeastern India.
I visited this region as part of a 3 week stay in the north east of the country. After that we went to Sikkim and then Meghalaya. It was one of the most memorable trips of my Indian adventure so far, and although Darjeeling wasn’t my favourite, it was a very pleasant stopover. And as you’ll see, the excursion to Rimbick was very enjoyable, as this village is a little gem!
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Why Darjeeling?
For this trip to North East India, I chose Darjeeling for a number of reasons.
Firstly, because I’d seen Wes Anderson’s film Darjeeling Limited. All those adventures had obviously made me want to find out more about this region.
Secondly, as I was keen to visit Sikkim, it seemed a good compromise to start my stay.
Finally, I’d heard about this famous mountain destination, famous for its tea fields and mountain views, and it seemed like a really nice place to visit. All the more reason to go!
The arrival did not disappoint. Although the tourist centre is very commercial, the colonial architecture blends in with the typical Indian lanes, giving it a real charm.
What’s more, if you take the time to wander around outside the centre, you’ll discover beautiful panoramas, scenes of local life, temples – in short, everything you need for a successful stay.
What to do in Darjeeling in 3 days?
- Take a leisurely stroll around the emblematic town centre. Don’t miss the Clock Tower and the Mall.
- The Mahakal Temple, a Hindu temple easily accessible from the main roads. Colourful and peaceful, it’s well worth a visit.
Not far from there is the Observatory Viewpoint, which overlooks the valley. - To the south, you can spend a day walking to the Buddhist monastery of Dali. On the way, stop off at the Japanese Garden and Peace Pagoda.
- For the more athletic, you can continue on to Ghoom Monastery.
In Darjeeling, like some of India’s most famous hill stations, there’s a cable car with views of the whole valley.
There is also an iconic toy train that runs from Darjeeling to Siliguri and back. This train is extremely slow (the whole journey takes 12 hours) but also very bucolic. You can choose to do only part of the journey to make the most of your time.
Practical tips:
- If you are going to fly, fly into Siliguri Airport. As a foreigner, it will be difficult to find reliable information about taxis to take you to Darjeeling. I paid 700 rupees for myself, while my local friend paid only 150 rupees in a shared taxi. So it’s clearly a hassle. If you can, try to arrange with your accommodation to pick you up from the airport.
- Darjeeling is a hill station, so it can be cold. Make sure you bring warm clothes.
Darjeeling’s top addresses:
Hideout Hostel – Youth Hostel
Located on the heights of Darjeeling, this hostel is easily accessible from the tourist centre. The view is magnificent and the prices are reasonable. It can get chilly so bring warm clothes. Hot water is available at certain times of the day and there is a small restaurant.
Hideout Hostel on Google Maps
Tom & Jerry’s Cafe
This restaurant is perfect for an English breakfast. The decor is all about Tom & Jerry, as the name suggests, and there are only a few tables available. The atmosphere is cosy and the food is very good.
Tom & Jerry’s Cafe on Google Maps
Keventer’s
This restaurant is well known in Darjeeling as it is featured in the Indian film Barfi (which I recommend). Breakfast is efficient and very good, and there is a terrace with a nice view.
Keventer’s on Google Maps
Tibetan Kitchen
This Tibetan restaurant is absolutely delicious. The dishes are juicy. And compared to some other Tibetan restaurants, the food is not too spicy for western (dare I say weak) palates like ours.
Tibet Kitchen on Google Maps
Glenary’s – Bakery
This bakery offers great breakfasts and wonderful pastries to enjoy with a cup of tea and views over the valley.
Glenary’s on Google Maps
2 days in Rimbick
After Darjeeling, we drove to Rimbick, about fifty kilometres away. This village is a bit off the beaten track, as it doesn’t see many foreign tourists, and yet it is a stopover that I have literally fallen in love with.
We first went there because it hosts a major sporting event every year: the Buddha Trail Ultra Marathon. This route leads up to Sandakphu, the highest peak in West Bengal, and offers a breathtaking view of the Sleeping Buddha, a mountain in Kangchenjunga that takes the form of a sleeping Buddha.
I only took part in the 12km race. The full distance was 58km, with the aim of finishing in under 15 hours.
If an ultra-marathon seems a little too ambitious, you can always do a trek. In 5 or 6 days, for the more athletic, you can get close to this mythical mountain and enjoy an incredible panorama.
But that’s not all Rimbick has to offer. It’s also a charming, colourful village where every house is covered in flowers. There are also temples, scenic roads and, above all, friendly locals.
Here is a list of things to do in Rimbick:
- The Manedara Monastery, where a meditative atmosphere reigns at the top of a green hill.
- The Sandakphu trek, which usually takes 7 days and costs 1000 rupees with a local guide, according to our hosts.
- The Srikhola suspension bridge, typical of this part of the world, covered with prayer flags.
Practical tips:
- To get to Rimbick from Darjeeling, you’ll need to take a jeep from the Chowk Bazar bus station. We paid 300 rupees per person for a not very comfortable seat. Don’t hesitate to pay for 2 seats if you want to travel more comfy.
- There are several hotels and guesthouses in and around the village, but some don’t accept foreigners because of a problem with insurance documents, the C form. Don’t hesitate to book ahead.
We stayed at Meghmala Homestay, which is also on Airbnb.
We also met other travellers staying at Chodenla Homestay, which is set back from the village, in the middle of the countryside. The food is delicious and the views are magical!
Hopefully these tips and pictures inspire you to discover this green and relaxing corner of India. I have to say that the north-east of the country has left me with a very mellow image, and this is partly due to starting my journey in the mountains. I can’t wait to go back, there’s so much to see!
Ready to explore Darjeeling and West Bengal?
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